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New Orleans Dining
What may be the most beloved restaurant of New Orleans, Commander's Palace opened its doors in 1880. The Brennan family took over the Garden District landmark in the mid-1970s, and the impeccable food and service have never wavered--this lavish eatery consistently ranks among the top in the world. Most locals will tell you not to miss the turtle soup or bread pudding soufflé; the 25-cent lunch martinis are another prized tradition. Other highlights include the grilled porterhouse, Louisiana oysters and Cajun caviar, onion-crusted gulf snapper, seared Muscovy duck breast and sugarcane-lacquered foie gras.
Along with the flagship Brennan's Restaurant, separate branches of the Brennan dynasty operate more than a dozen eateries across the city. Dickie Brennan cut his culinary teeth with Chef Paul Prudhomme at Commander's Palace and later helped launch another family venture, Mr. B's Bistro. After apprenticing in New York and Paris, he opened the Palace Cafe in 1991. Though it might not be as well known as its cousins, the Palace is equally exceptional, with a long list of national accolades to prove it. The signature appetizer is crabmeat cheesecake baked in a pecan crust. Entrée specialties include andouille-crusted gulf fish, pork porterhouse and citrus honey-glazed duck. Don't leave without indulging in dessert--the ponchatoula strawberry shortcake and white chocolate bread pudding are standouts, and the tableside preparation of bananas foster makes every occasion special. Reservations are highly recommended, and don't count on a quiet meal; the open, tiled dining rooms make for a "high-energy" atmosphere.
One of the Brennans' best-known executive chefs, Paul Prudhomme opened K-Paul's Louisiana Kitchen in 1979 and soon became a household name. His Cajun cookbooks made the New York Times bestseller list, and you could locate his restaurant by the line of tourists snaking down Chartres Street. The restaurant's popularity once kept locals away, but no longer. K-Paul's was one of the first restaurants to reopen after Katrina, and grateful residents flocked back for Cajun camaraderie and comfort food. Prudhomme organized a series of charity events and even hired a jazz trio to play outside the restaurant every night to bring life to the silent French Quarter. The restaurant is bustling again, serving up Cajun classics like gumbo, jambalaya and shrimp etouffée, along with K-Paul's signature dishes--blackened drum, bronzed swordfish with hot fanny sauce, beef tenders with debris sauce. For a quieter, more intimate meal, ask for a seat in the stylish dining room upstairs.
Originally from Massachusetts, Emeril Lagasse traveled the world and trained in classic French cuisine before settling down as executive chef at Commander's Palace. He went on to become a TV star, hosting his own cooking show while opening nine restaurants across the country, including Emeril's and Nola in New Orleans. In 1997 he purchased a century-old city icon, Delmonico's, and spent millions in renovations.
Emeril's Delmonico Restaurant & Bar has become a true star on the local scene. As you'd expect from a classic American steakhouse, Prime beef is the focus here, but the menu also features such delicious choices as pan-fried redfish meunière, wild mushroom and ricotta cannelloni, Colorado lamb chops and hickory-roasted duck. Service is consistently first rate, genuine and without airs--a rare find in a restaurant of this caliber.
Diners at Restaurant August may recognize Chef John Besh from the Food Network's Iron Chef challenge; around New Orleans he's known as the local boy made good. Owner of one of the top-ranked restaurants in the country, Besh assisted in feeding hundreds of relief workers after Hurricane Katrina. A native of Louisiana, Besh graduated from the Culinary Institute of America and trained in Europe. His sumptuous restaurant, housed in a 19th-century grocers' warehouse, features a rich mahogany bar, high ceilings, large windows, exposed brick walls and soft velvet chairs. The contemporary French menu includes such standouts as Morrocan spiced duck, pan-seared filet of prime rib and crispy seared blackfish. For a warm appetizer, try the "BLT" of buster crab, lettuce and tomato on lost bread (a Cajun French toast known as pain perdu).
Most New Orleanians speak of Brigtsen's with deep reverence. For more than 20 years, Frank Brigtsen and his wife Marna have been serving artfully prepared Creole and Cajun fare in a cozy Victorian cottage. As with so many New Orleans chefs, Mr. Brigtsen (pronounced BRIGHT-son) apprenticed with Paul Prudhomme at both Commander's Palace and K-Paul's Louisiana Kitchen. His menu changes daily but focuses on local and seasonal ingredients; sample items include butternut shrimp bisque, sautéed soft-shell crab, roast duck, pan-fried speckled trout and braised rabbit in phyllo pastry. The wait staff is attentive and personable, likely owed to the familiarity of serving Uptown regulars for years. Brigtsen's is on the far end of St. Charles Avenue on Dante Street near the Riverbend, which will require most visitors to take a cab or streetcar--but it's worth the trip.
Tucked away in a modest Uptown neighborhood and a cab ride away from the French Quarter, Clancy's should be on every concierge's list. Visitors often liken this experience to eating at a friend's house--the rooms are small but sophisticated, the tables are close and conversation flows freely (and often loudly). The contemporary Creole cuisine features such delicacies as fried oysters topped with melted brie, grilled chicken breast in lime butter and smoked soft-shell crab. Reasonable portion sizes allow you to sample more than one course without guilt. Try the signature ice-box lemon pie for dessert.
Groovy, funky and eclectic are the words often used to describe Jacques-Imo's Cafe. Though relatively new to New Orleans, this Uptown eatery is already a local darling. The waiting line spills out of the restaurant, onto the sidewalk and into nearby bars (people-watching is part of the fun). To call this place "colorful" is an understatement; the dining rooms are brightly decorated, and the staff is young and hip. Two hits on the Comfort Creole menu are the fried chicken and alligator-sausage cheesecake. The sweet corn bread is a great starter. The menu reaches much higher levels of sophistication, but you can still show up in a T-shirt and jeans.
Most locals don't want you to know about Dick and Jenny's, one of the best-kept dining secrets in town. The nondescript cottage near the corner of Napoleon and Tchoupitoulas is easy to miss, but the food is unforgettable. Chef Dick Benz comes from stints at the equally esteemed Gautreau's and Upperline; his wife, Jenny, runs the front of the house. The American Regional menu concentrates on seasonal and local ingredients, with such samples as pan-seared diver scallops, grilled duck breast with chorizo sausage and sautéed Mississippi quail. A sure way to start your meal is with an order of corn-fried gulf oysters and remoulade. Save room for desserts; they're all imaginative and irresistible. Prices are exceedingly reasonable for food of this caliber, and the family-friendly restaurant offers a limited children's menu. Once again, reservations aren't accepted, so get there early or expect a wait at the bar or the outdoor patio.
Family-run since it opened in 1918, Casamento's Restaurant is hailed for its oysters--especially the oyster loaf. For this house specialty, fresh oysters are dipped in corn flour, deep-fried in cast-iron skillets and served between thick slices of pan bread. Shuckers work at a small, standing-room-only bar, plating countless orders of oysters on the half shell. The restaurant's tiled exterior makes it easy to spot on Magazine Street; the old-fashioned interior hasn't changed much in half a century. A-list celebrities make it a point to visit when they're in town, as you'll see from the autographed shirts on the wall.
Drago's is a family-run restaurant in the suburb of Metairie. Croatian immigrants Drago and Klara Cvitanovich opened their eatery in 1970 after building a respected reputation in the local industry. Drago perfected his oyster-shucking skills at the Acme Oyster House, and his namesake restaurant is highly regarded for its oyster dishes. Shellfish comes fresh from Louisiana oyster beds. The menu includes oysters on the half shell, char-broiled oysters and oysters herradura (sautéed with onions, tomatoes, and pine nuts, and then deglazed with tequila). Equally popular are the lobster and seafood entrees, including drumfish tommy and Crescent City shrimp. Drago's also offers chicken, duck and pasta dishes.
Irene's Cuisine pays homage to the little-known but large Italian-American population in New Orleans. On a quiet corner in the French Quarter, this popular eatery attracts both tourists and locals, though everyone must be willing to accept a long wait--reservations aren't accepted. Diners sit closely in the dining room, but the waitstaff scurries about with precision. The menu is garlicky Sicilian with enough Creole flavor to keep it local. The spicy aromas of stuffed veal chop, roasted garlic chicken, grilled red snapper and rosemary chicken are enough to bring guests in off the street. Don't leave without sampling the baked Alaska with its flaming grappa. Irene's is open only for dinner, so make your plans accordingly--and get there early.
The Salvadoran owner of Taqueria Corona has given New Orleans a taste of Mexican cuisine. Burritos and tacos are the standard fare, but even pizzas are served at this small local chain. The décor and service are very casual, and the kitchen is in full view, allowing delicious aromas to waft over the dining room. The tomato pico de gallo is chunky and delicious; the only drawback is that chips and salsa cost extra, and you'll also be charged for additional toppings. With so few alternatives to Creole and Italian restaurants in the Crescent City, you'll likely be grateful to find this south-of-the-border option.
Iler Pope, owner of likes to say she serves "honest Southern food." This neighborhood restaurant offers a long list of daily specials in addition to its regular menu of simple yet flavorful dishes: fried green tomatoes, candied yams, Creole succotash, double-cut pork chops, crab cakes, seafood gumbo, fruit cobblers. There's no real ambiance to speak of--the décor is simple and utilitarian, and yet the place attracts everyone from Tulane students to well-heeled Uptown residents. In keeping with its Southern feel, service tends to be slow and laid-back.
Considered a true gastronomical gem, Bayona is housed in a centuries-old Creole cottage with a lovely courtyard. Chef Susan Spicer focuses on seasonally available ingredients rather than any specific culinary style--her menu reflects a true global sensibility. Highlights include the Niman ranch pork chop with corn fritters, red grouper with purple coconut rice, veal sweetbreads with sherry mustard and the rabbit, andouille and blackeyed-pea gumbo. This French Quarter favorite is warm and inviting, the perfect backdrop for an intimate evening.
French Master Chef René Bajeux continues to reinvent the concept of Country French cuisine at Rene Bistrot. The food at this contemporary restaurant in the Renaissance Pere Marquette Hotel is the opposite of fussy, and service is blessedly unpretentious. Highlights include braised beef tenderloin tips, grilled tuna, veal sweetbreads in brioche crust, Alsace onion tart and grilled Portuguese sardines. The dining room's sophisticated but friendly design makes this a perfect place for a casual lunch or a special night out.
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